Aapnu Amdavad

Although Ahmedabad is just 2 hours away from Baroda, where I lived all my life till I was 18, I hadn’t really loved or for that matter, even explored Ahmedabad. I did obviously visit  Kankaria Lake, Sabarmati Ashram, the shaking minarets and the Rani ni Jaali on picnics or school excursions but I never really examined or studied the history of these places; I’d visited all these places before 2013 and my knowledge of history and culture was relatively limited then. I didn’t visit Ahmedabad much between 2013-2015. Moreover, since Baroda is quite cosmopolitan and Ahmedabad’s culture is known to be a singularly Gujarati culture, I never had the inclination to visit Ahmedabad and explore it. But my sister got a job in Ahmedabad last November and she took part in a lot of heritage walks there,after which she insisted that I visit Ahmedabad.

I’ve visited Ahmedabad thrice in the past 4 months and I’ve enjoyed each visit. There’s still a lot that I haven’t explored in Ahmedabad but whatever I’ve seen so far has exceeded my expectations. After visiting some of the best restaurants in Bombay, I’d set the bar for cafes and restaurants very high but I have to admit that I was quite impressed by most of the places I visited. Some of the best cafes and restaurants I’ve visited so far are:

1. The Project Cafe:

I have to say that I give this place full marks for its interiors and exteriors; it is too pretty and extremely spacious. The concept of the place(it houses and displays the works of amateur,budding artists) is also quite unique and all the artwork on display is lovely! I visited it late in the afternoon so it was quite empty and I had one section all to myself. I ordered the stuffed mushrooms, the ginger lemon tea and the mocha mousse flan pastry. The quantity was satisfactory and the quality was also very good. The tea could be slightly better but  on the whole, the quality of food was fairly good. I sat there for a long time and read a book. This place gives out a calm, soothing vibe and is perfect for those who want to enjoy a meal or a cup of coffee in silence. While Baroda has pretty cafes, the food is quite average and so I loved that the Project Cafe struck a perfect chord between ambiance and food quality.

2. Nautanki

I’d heard a lot about Nautanki and since it’s the only place in Ahmedabad that’s known for its application of molecular gastronomy to its dishes, my sister and I were very excited to visit it. I’d previously visited Masala Library in Bombay which was probably the first place in India to start molecular gastronomy so I had very high expectations. Unfortunately, Nautanki was pretty average in comparison to Masala Library, firstly since quite a few dishes seemed to be inspired from the dishes at Masala Library but weren’t as tasty as the latter. We ordered a chaat trolley which cost approximately 700 bucks and so we thought it’d be quite elaborate. The server brought the trolley to our table and made the chaat in front of us but it was just one chaat and even though the taste was pretty good, it didn’t seem to be worth the money. Their papad platter is good for a group of at least 4-6 people since it’s pretty big but then again, there isn’t any molecular gastronomy involved in the dish. The other dishes were also quite normal. On the whole, this place can be visited once but the food is ‘just good’, not exceptional or extraordinary. I’d personally prefer paying slightly more and having a meal at Masala Library.

P.S. Nautanki has pretty interiors

3) Huber and Holly:

Huber and Holly is extremely popular amongst people in Ahmedabad and although I visited it at 10:30 pm on a weekday, it was quite full. It serves everything but is well-known for its desserts. Their ice-creams are quite innovative and absolutely delicious! I’d love to visit it again and have a proper meal.

4) The Kettlery

Bombay has a lot of cafes that open up early in the morning but most of the cafes in Gujarat open post 11 in the morning. My sister and I wanted to go for breakfast and The Kettlery was one of the few options we had. It is a bungalow converted into a cafe. It is very beautiful and spacious. They have outdoor seating in one section of the first floor and on the terrace. Since it was quiet warm, we sat inside. This cafe also had a pretty impressive book collection and had I come alone, I would’ve picked up a book from the collection and read it. Their drinks menu is quite varied and they serve different types of hot and cold teas, coffees and coolers. Their food menu also has a lot of options. My sister ordered the spiced chai latte and I ordered the chamomile mint iced tea, both of which were delicious. We ordered the grilled cheese and veggie bagel; 3 days before this, I’d ordered a bagel sandwich in Baroda and it was disastrous since it wasn’t an actual bagel but a big bun with an aloo patty. I was not expecting too much from this bagel but it was absolutely authentic and very tasty. We also ordered a sachertorte which was delicious! The Kettlery exceeded my expectations and should not be missed!

Chamomile mint iced tea

I also visited Cafe Baraco and Nini’s Kitchen, both of which were good. Cafe Baraco serves a coffee called Cafe Baraco which is a cappuccino with a dash of cinnamon;it is heavenly and is definitely worth trying. Nini’s Kitchen has really good tandoori bharwan mushrooms, although the taste of mushrooms wasn’t as dominant as I had expected. Both these places were fairly decent.

I’ve always had an eye for unconventional places and although I earlier thought that Ahmedabad lacks such places, I saw a couple of really interesting places during my visits. I have an obsession with synagogues and I think they’re extremely pretty and grossly under-rated in India. When I found out that Ahmedabad has a synagogue and that it’s the only one in Gujarat, I decided that the first place on my priority list would be this. It’s located in the old city area and is pretty inconspicuous. Google hadn’t listed any visiting hours so when I landed there, it was locked and I was told by the nearby vendors that it opens after two hours. As I was about to leave, someone told me that the caretaker lives right behind the synagogue and he may open it. I tried to approach him and so I walked into the extremely dilapidated area behind the synagogue. While a tiny part of me was mad at myself for being so crazy, I thought that asking the caretaker to open the synagogue for me won’t be such a bad thing. Thankfully, he agreed and showed me the synagogue. Although very little efforts have been made to preserve it, it looked quite impressive and prayer meetings are still held there. I would definitely recommend a synagogue visit to anyone in Ahmedabad since it is a representative of a culture that isn’t very well-preserved in India but whatever little bit of the culture is preserved is beautiful, to say the least.

A panorama shot taken inside the synagogue

I also visitied the conflictorium, which is a museum of conflict. It has a record of some of the greatest social, cultural and political conflicts that have taken place in India and in its neighbouring countries. It is a participative museum because it requires the visitors to involve themselves in the study and experience of those conflicts. This is also situated in the old city and is housed in a bungalow that belonged to the first female hairdresser in Ahmedabad. One of my favourite exhibits in the museum consists of a large mirror on a table which has a photograph of the above-mentioned lady and a pair of scissors. The visitor is supposed to sit and hear a recording through headphones while looking at the mirror. The audio is recorded by the founder/owner of the museum. That exhibit is absolutely enlightening. My second favourite exhibit is the ‘sorry tree’ which has the suicide letter of Rohith Vemula written on a wall and a jar where you can write down something you’re sorry about. It may seem like a simple task, but once you accept your mistake on paper and apologize for the same, to no one in particular, it seems exceptionally relieving. This made me realize the importance of letting out one’s feelings through words; even if those words aren’t read by anyone, they benefit the writer because often, writing is like letting go, letting go of all that is binding you to something undesirable, scarring you and hurting you. The conflictorium is one place that I cannot aptly describe because it is an experience, an experience every Indian must have in today’s  turbulent times.

Ahmedabad has surprised me with its diversity, intrigued me with its hidden gems and charmed me with its vibe that resembles a metropolitan city but also reminds one of a small town. I sometimes still feel that Ahmedabad is somehow ‘too Gujarati’ for someone like me.I don’t fit the stereotype of a Gujarati that many people hold; I often question the excessive noise pollution caused by Navratri, I like spicy food,I speak English quite well and my Gujarati is quite poor. Sometimes, when I sit alone in a cafe in Ahmedabad and hear people around me, all I hear is Gujarati words and sentences whereas I’m used to hearing a bunch of languages in Bombay and even Baroda, for that matter. But now, I’m fascinated by Ahmedabad because beneath this upper Gujarati layer, it holds within itself the traces of so many cultures that are waiting to be explored and appreciated. Earlier, I could never relate to the phrase ‘Aapnu Amdavad’. But now I can, because now Ahmedabad seems more open, more welcoming and more accepting. Now it seems like an Ahmedabad that is mine and yours, without any distinction.Now, it is, Aapnu Amdavad.

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Padharo mhare desh!

I have to admit that I had my fair share of apprehensions before signing up for a tour organized by the nature club of my college. In my defence, only one friend of mine was interested and the idea of travelling and being chaperoned by teachers didn’t sound appealing to a rebel like me. But I decided to go on the trip anyway, because it was a tour of Rajasthan and it covered a lot of cities. I had previously visited Jaipur twice and I absolutely loved it so the sole intention with which I and my friend embarked on this tour was to see and experience the wonders of Rajasthan.

The lows- The group that we travelled with came on the trip just to click selfies and to eat the food they normally eat in all the hotels and to buy expensive things from the highly commercialized gift-shops outside all the places of interest. None of the people wanted to go to Chokhi Dhani, which is known for the delicious Rajasthani food and instead enjoyed the paneer ki sabzi and biryani that was provided daily. We weren’t allowed to explore a lot on our own and were expected to stick with the group.

The highs- My friend and I met two like-minded people on the trip, people who liked exploring and wanted to try different things and that was great. But the two things that mattered the most-the food and the places of interest were worth it. The food was exceptionally tasty and the places of interest were splendid, to say the least. Here’s a look at each city and its highlights:

1) Ranthambore/Sawai Madhopur:

Sawai Madhopur is known for Ranthambore National Park and its tigers; but I feel that the Ranthambore Fort is as good as the former. It’s quite big and although many efforts to maintain it have been taken, it has more or less retained its beauty. I really enjoyed climbing to the top and I was really impressed by the views from various points in the fort, but since this was the first fort we saw in a state that it known for its forts, I didn’t know that many more beautiful forts were awaiting me. On the whole, although the fort is not that great, it’s not so bad either. The national park, on the other hand, was quite a disappointment because we didn’t see any tigers and this also goes to show that the number of tigers is decreasing at an alarming rate and all efforts to prevent that are failing.

Inside the fort

The view from the Ranthambore fort

The entrance to the fort

This was the area that was allotted to the queen

The top of the fort is flocked by monkeys

Ranthambore

2) Jaipur:

I’d been to Jaipur twice before this trip and I was still looking forward to it. The ‘Pink city’ does live up to all the hype surrounding it. The Amer Fort is absolutely stunning and one of the best places I saw in the tour. The carvings on all the walls are so intricate and beautiful that one cannot help but gasp. The Hawa Mahal, the City Palace and Jantar Mantar are all very well-maintained and the museum in the city palace is extremely interesting and a must-visit for history lovers. The old city markets are must-visits for people who are looking for jhumkas, bandhani dupattas, jholas, mojdis and kurtas. Although almost everything is very cheap, I felt that the Hawa Mahal bazaar was cheaper than Bapu bazaar which is more famous. One can find jhumkas being sold near Amer Fort at very cheap prices but these bazaars have more variety. #KhanabadoshTravelTip-Some shopkeepers might charge high prices for bandhani and other dupattas by saying that it’s because of the quality, so please don’t fall for such gimmicks. The print kurtas sold in the bazaars are extremely VFM (There’s a shop at the junction of the first and second lane in Bapu bazaar that sells sleeveless kurtas for 150 and 3/4 sleeve kurtas for 200 and the quality of the kurtas is really good). But the one thing that one cannot miss in Jaipur is Laxmi Mishtan Bhandar or LMB as it is popularly known. My friend and I had to report back to our group and we had 25 minutes to go to LMB, eat and go back and at the risk of being scolded by the professors, we went to LMB and we were glad we did. Their pyaaz kachori and lassi were insanely tasty and worth all the haste! This place should not be missed. The next day, we ventured out by ourselves and went to Kailash ka Dhaba and ordered a Rajasthani thali which had Dal baati, churma, gatte ki sabzi, dal-chawal and roti, along with lassi. Let me clarify that I’m not a lassi lover but this trip made me one. The thali, again was fantastic and I would recommend Kailash da Dhaba in Hawa Mahal bazaar for the quick service, reasonable prices and yummy food.

Amer Fort

Thali at Kailash Da Dhaba

Lassi and pyaaz kachori at LMB

kulfi in hawa mahal bazaar

Hawa Mahal

City Palace

Some of the souvenirs sold at Amer Fort

Inside Amer Fort

Inside Amer Fort

3) Jaisalmer:

Before we reached Jaisalmer, we went through a terrifying train journey from Jaipur to Jaisalmer. I’d travelled in second class sleeper almost 10-12 times before but the crowd of people was never as bad as during this journey. As a result, we hardly slept during the night and when we tried to sleep, the cold kept us awake. So woke up quite cranky but all of that went away when we saw our campsite in Jaisalmer, 50 kilometers away from the city. It was very close to the sand dunes and we felt like we were in the middle of nowhere and for once I was glad I didn’t have any mobile network. After recovering from the hangover that the train journey gave us, we went for a camel ride in the sand dunes. The whole experience took me back to my childhood. The camel ride made me squeal in delight like a young kid and once we reached the sand dunes, I played with the sand, something every kid loves to do but stops doing once he/she grows up. When I was a kid, my dad and I would make secret pathways in the sand and I made the same with a young girl in Jaisalmer. There, making that sand tunnel and watching the gorgeous sunset, that was one of the best parts of the trip. At night, we had a cultural evening under the stars, wherein dancers performed traditional Rajasthani dances and we were served a Rajasthani meal. It was quite enjoyable and later at night, we walked around the campsite and at one point, we took off our chappals and enjoyed the cold sand. I cannot express how simple yet satisfying that was.

The next morning, we left the campsite and went to the old city. The Jaisalmer fort is very unique because almost the entire city resides inside the fort. Grocery stores and restaurants are located inside the fort and yet, it hasn’t been contaminated by human habitation, it is still a delightful visual. The fort is golden-yellow in colour and quite beautiful. Next we went to Patwon ki Haveli. This is just one haveli, there are other havelis also but some of them have been infested by bees or termites and hence are not open to the public. The Patwon ki Haveli was quite beautiful. Every storey was more marvellous than the previous one and the roof has a beautiful view of the city. The havelis are located in the small by-lanes of the city and walking in these lanes gives one the true feel of Rajasthan. A lot of street shops sell different types of kachori near this area but I cannot vouch for the taste, although I’m pretty certain that it must be authentic.

The sunset at the sand dunes in Jaisalmer

Patwon ki haveli

I randomly saw this door and loved it

4) Jodhpur:

Jodhpur was the underdog of the tour. I wasn’t expecting much from Jodhpur since it’s not as popular as the other cities and relatively less written about. But it managed to surprise me and hold me in awe. The first place that we visited in Jodhpur was Jaswant Thada; it was beautiful. It is very well maintained and has some great views! We then went to Mehrangarh fort, which is one of the biggest forts in the state. It has a very good museum, which has an informative yet engaging display. A lot of films have been shot at this picturesque location. We also visited the Mandore garden, which was spread over a large area and is captivating.The Jodhpur Palace, however is a must-visit. Half of it is taken over by a hotel but the remaining part is converted into a museum and there’s also a vintage car museum which is a paradise for car-lovers. The view from the palace is so good and no picture can do justice to it.

As far as food is concerned, the area near the clock tower in Jodhpur is the place to be. Ajanta Sweet Home is well-known but it must be visited early or else the good stuff gets finished. We found a small shop behind the clock tower where we had mogar kachori, mava kachori, lassi and rabdi and all of them were great. The mava kachori is really sweet so people who do not have a sweet tooth should stay away from it. Pyaaz kachori can be found at Ajanta sweet home or Shahi samosa.

inside Mandor park

The entrance to Mehrangarh Fort

Jaswant Thada

Inside Jaswant Thada

The view at the entrance of Jaswant Thada

 

One of my favourite doors, inside Jaswant Thada

Inside Mehrangarh Fort

The coolest dude in Rajasthan

The view from Mehrangarh Fort

The palace at Jodhpur of which the right half is converted into a hotel and is not open to tourists

mogar kachori(on the left), mava kachori (on the right), rabdi and lassi

a panoramic view of the city, taken outside Jodhpur palace

 

5) Udaipur:

Udaipur was my favourite, out of all the cities we covered; and as clichéd as it may sound, I knew it was my favourite the moment I saw Fatehsagar lake.My boat ride in the lake was filled with feelings of amusement, awe and fascination. The places that followed were just as good, if not better. Saheliyon ki bari and its fountains amused me and I enjoyed it despite the crazy crowd. But the City palace took my breath away. I got major YJHD feels when I visited the palace and the views from the palace were breathtakingly beautiful. The palace also had some very pretty doors and I instantly fell in love with it. But the best part of our day in Udaipur was when we left the palace and were walking down towards the entrance and saw the beautiful sunset by the lake. The sky looked like a stunning canvas that was painted to perfection. #KhanabadoshTip- There’s a restaurant right outside the city palace and it has a great view of the lake. Since I was in a group and had to get back to the hotel, I couldn’t go there but I bet it’s worth visiting, just for the ambiance.

That night, for dinner, we decided to rebel against the authorities that were making us eat paneer and dal-chawal and went out for dinner. 1559 AD is one restaurant that I’d heard a lot about, from very reliable sources so we finalized it. It has a really soothing ambiance with Rajasthani music being played. There is indoor as well as outdoor seating and we chose the latter. The variety in the menu is impeccable. We ordered stir fried vegetables with rice and stuffed mushrooms. The quantity is worth mentioning and the portions are quite filling. I wouldn’t say that the food was wonderful but it wasn’t bad at all. All in all, 1559 AD is a place that should be visited once.

Pichola lake

The Udaipur palace

The view of the city from the palace

Inside the palace

Fatehsagar Lake

The view from Maharana Pratap Memorial

Saheliyon ki Bari

Saheliyon ki Bari

It was the prince’s birthday when we visited it, this is a picture of the celebration

banana caramel pudding

Stir fried rice at 1559 AD

6) Mount Abu:

Mount Abu was one of the most fun places of our trip. It stood out because it had many hill station-like attractions- the countless ice-cream sellers, small shops selling souvenirs, cute cafes and street food stalls serving almost everything from dal baati to manchurian to pani-puri. I’d been told to visit Cafe Shikibo and try the orange hot chocolate. When we looked it up on TripAdvisor, it said that the place was right in the middle of the main market whereas they had shifted the cafe some time back (They’ve updated the address now). It’s still in the middle of the city only, but in the bylines. It is pretty spacious and I loved the ambiance which clearly shows how much thought has gone behind designing the whole place. The owner is very friendly and will even suggest you dishes. We ordered the orange hot chocolate, cheesy fries, a gingerbread cappuccino and a veg grilled sandwich. The cappuccino was good but I have a feeling that only those with experimental taste buds will like it. The sandwich and the fries were tasty but the orange hot chocolate was the showstopper. It was HEAVENLY! I would definitely recommend that to everybody. All in all, Cafe Shikibo is a place to be visited.

The next morning we went to the main market and had a breakfast that consisted of coffee, egg ghotala with bread and masala maggi, which was insanely satisfying. We then went for sightseeing, of which our first stop was the Dilwara temples. The temples are Jain temples,are made of marbles and are known for the intricate carvings. Now I have to say that for someone who’s just been to forts and palaces in the rest of Rajasthan, intricate carvings may sound very normal, but these carvings just blew me away and made the other places I’d seen seem like they’d been made by amateurs, in terms of the carvings. The temples are not allowed to be photographed and are very crowded but definitely worth a visit. After the Dilwara temples, we visited the Achalgarh temples which were badly maintained and were not as magnificent as the former; Achalgarh, can therefore, be skipped.

Our next destination was Guru-Shikhar, which is the highest point of the Aravalli range. My dad had told me that Guru Shikhar is something I should not miss and so I was incredibly excited for it. When we reached there, however, most of the people decided to give it a miss since it required some amount of climbing which they were not ready to do. Since I said that I will go there no matter what, a few people accompanied me. We climbed to Guru Shikhar in just 5 minutes! There is a Jain temple at the entrance which is quite well-maintained and after walking through it, we came out and were greeted by the spectacular view. It probably won’t compare to the views one might get in the Himalayas, it is probably one of the best in the state. I kind of felt bad for all the lazy bums who missed out on it because they didn’t want to climb such a short distance.

After leaving Guru-Shikhar with very high spirits, we went to the Brahma Kumaris Peace Park, where again, most of the people backed out because the idea of walking in a beautiful and clean garden made by one of the most famous spiritual organizations in India didn’t appeal to them! I went in with the same group of people that had accompanied me to Guru Shikhar, but I walked ahead of them since the Peace Park was so beautiful that I didn’t want to spoil my experience by engaging in conversation; it was that kind of moment that is best experienced in silence. One of the highlights of my walk was when I saw the playground within the park where adults were playing on swings and see-saws. They seemed so happy and seeing them made me realize that if we try, we can obtain happiness from things like swings, which we deem to be immature as soon as we grow up. The visual of that playground is something I will always remember and something that taught me that it is okay to relive my childhood. The entire park is beautiful and there is also a meditation room which I would definitely recommend because it elevated my mood. This place should not be missed and I’d suggested walking through the park in silence in order to appreciate its serenity. Silence is often under-rated, celebrate it.

P.S. Taking photographs is not allowed inside the Peace Park

Softy ice-cream in the market

Egg ghotala with bread

cheesy and masala maggi in the market

cheesy fries

sandwich at Cafe Shikibo

Cafe Shikibo

Brahma Kumaris Peace Park

A panoramic view from the top of Guru Shikhar

Guru Shikhar as seen from the bottom

Gingerbread coffee, orange hot chocolate and something else that one of my roommates ordered

Mount Abu was the last destination of our trip; we took a train back to Bombay from Abu Road Station. I came back with a lot of lessons 1) Going on a trip in a group, especially a college group, can be tricky when everyone has different interests 2) Not everyone is as excited about exploring as you are 3) Sometimes, you need to find a middle path and do your bit of exploring while adhering to the schedule at the same time. My friend, Delice and I made 2 new friends, who are our juniors in college, who we’d never met before; they also liked exploring like we did and we had a lot of fun venturing out on our own, away from the group! This was the first trip Delice and I took together and in the beginning it was difficult to be around each other the whole time, and while we did argue at times since she is incredibly talkative and I like being quiet at times, we managed to have a great trip because we didn’t let any of our arguments get out of control and more importantly, because we both love exploring and we rebelled against the whole group together. We’re definitely not going for a college trip again but we look forward to travelling together in the future.

Rajasthan is rich in culture, is incredibly diverse, each city has its own story to tell. But what I realized after this trip is that while most of the monuments in Rajasthan are worth visiting, some of the less celebrated monuments are the real gems: I would definitely put the Peace Park and Guru Shikhar above the Delwara Temples; Jaswant Thada and Mandore Park will linger in my mind longer than Mehrangarh Fort will and I think that Ranthambore and Ranthambore fort are slightly overrated and can be skipped. While Jaipur is richer in terms of history, Udaipur will be my favourite! I realized that travelling is about breaking free from the set schedule, exploring the unexplored, never underestimating the beauty of a place and being open to new experiences and lessons. I should mention at this point that Rajasthan has some of the prettiest, some of the most majestic and some of the simplest yet charming doors which will always stay with me.

The large number of foreigners who visited the place also made me wonder why we tend to underestimate the beauty of our nation. My father loves travelling but he doesn’t have a passport; he always told me that India is so vast and so beautiful that he wants to travel the whole country before venturing abroad. We plan trips abroad round the year and talk about the modernity that some of the global destinations boast of but do we fully appreciate the beauty that our country has? To find out why so many foreigners visit Rajasthan every year,go there once, dance to the folk songs, take in the grandeur of the forts and the beauty of the palaces, taste the food that is as delicious as it is varied, go on a camel safari and walk barefoot in the sand at night with the moon and stars to keep you company. Ek baar hi sahi, padharo mhare desh!

Hidden gems of Bombay-1

Bombay is a microcosm of India. It is a world in itself, it is a spirit; one that imbibes in you,  traits like courage, fearlessness, empathy and ultimately teaches you about this bittersweet journey called life. I have always loved Bombay; for its rain and for its sea, for its cruelty and for its gentleness, for the way it tests us with the heat and humidity and rewards us almost instantly with the generous showers. But there is a lot more to Bombay than just the rain. One thing many fail to acknowledge is the historical and natural beauty that Bombay possesses. Certain beautiful parts of Bombay often go unnoticed, thanks to the many praises that have been sung in favour of the sea and the rain.The  ‘unexplored side’ of Bombay as I like to call it is as much a part of Bombay’s beauty as Marine Drive and Gateway of India and Bandstand. As much as I love walking on Carter’s at night, there is a certain charm about the churches in Bandra and Colaba that are often empty. As much as I like the view that Juhu beach offers, it doesn’t match up to the beauty of many of the SoBo buildings; and as much as I admire the skyscrapers in Lower Parel and Worli, there is nothing like a quiet afternoon spent in finding those few green, untouched spots in Bombay. These, I feel, are the things that add to Bombay ki beauty.

Mahakali Caves in Andheri East is one place that is accessible from almost every part of the city, yet it was quite deserted on a Sunday afternoon; mostly because a lot of people don’t know about it but also because it hasn’t been maintained. Keeping all that aside, I can safely say that I haven’t seen a greener place than this in Bombay.

These caves, often confused with Kanheri Caves in Borivali, are a group of 19 rock-cut monuments built between 1st century BCE and 6th century CE. Unlike other monuments of national importance, Mahakali Caves doesn’t have any signboards, informative descriptions or ticket counters. One can simply walk in amidst the group of children playing football outside the gate and explore the ruins of these caves and indulge in the quiet this place offers. Due to the lack of maintenance, it is difficult to figure out what each cave represents; there seemed to be traces of stairs in one cave but they’re completely inaccessible now.

Since there was very little to do except walk in the lush green space that the Caves provided, that’s all I did. And it was exceptionally satisfying. Being surrounded by such tranquility in the middle of the maddening circus that Bombay is,is priceless. Mahakali caves may not have impacted me in the way Elephanta did, in terms of grandeur, but it soothed me, it pleased me, it captured my attention with its immense beauty, greenery and above all, its mystery.

Marine Drive captured my heart the first time I sat there at night, along with hundreds of other night owls; I enjoyed clicking pictures and posing at the Gateway of India and the Hanging Gardens. But the sense of satisfaction I felt after visiting Mahakali Caves was unparalleled, maybe because it felt like a hidden gem, a secret only a lucky few knew and something that hadn’t been tarnished by the carelessness of tourists .It is beautiful, it is enchanting, it is spectacular but in an unconventional way. I took time out to go Khanabadoshing to Mahakali Caves and I wasn’t disappointed. So next time you feel like going out on a weekend, ditch Carter’s or Juhu Beach and go to Mahakali. Explore the unexplored side of Bombay and find yourself falling in love with this city all over again.

Pune meri jaan!

I’ve always loved Bombay. So when I moved here a year back, I knew I had to make the most of my 3 years here. In no time, I felt like I could call the city my own. Baroda, my hometown, will always be a special city for me but Bombay had managed to encapsulate me in its realm. Jeet Thayil had once rightly said, “I found Bombay and opium, the drug and the city; the city of opium and the drug Bombay.” Bombay was a drug and it managed to woo me completely. I was of the opinion that no other metro city could compete with Bombay. I believed in the “Mumbai is a city, Bombay is an emotion” ideology. 

Last month, I happened to visit a really close friend in Pune. I’d heard so much about Pune: of the abundant educational and employment opportunities, of how it was a great place to settle and of how it had preserved its culture in a way that Bombay had not. Before the trip, I knew I wanted to explore Pune, but I was certain  that I could never love Pune as much as I love Bombay, I knew I would still think Bombay was better, I thought Pune was just another big city trying to compete with Bombay. But I couldn’t have been more wrong.

One thing I hated about Pune was the explicit lack of road sense. People drive haphazardly on the roads without any fear. But then, Pune doesn’t have the traffic that makes people in Bombay go crazy. You never get stuck in Pune for hours and as you drive, you can see trees and gardens around you, you see temples and synagogues around and things like these are delightful to watch.

One misconception that a lot of people have about Pune is that it is a ‘dead’ city. So many people have told me that Pune is boring and that there is nothing to do during the weekends and that they can’t wait to go to Bombay or Delhi and party. During my trip, I found Pune to be an extremely lively and welcoming place. I went to quaint little cafes, legendary eateries and high-end restaurants and pubs; I even had anda bhurji and maggi from roadside stalls in the middle of the night. I saw the quiet of Pune and the chaos and it wouldn’t be wrong to say that the perfect balance of these two was what made me love Pune in the first place.

As far as food was concerned, it was a very mushroom-y weekend for me. I tried a lot of mushroom dishes and I loved them all. Pune is a highly underrated destination as far as food is concerned. I discovered some very good places to eat in Pune and I was satisfied with most of my findings.

Here are some of the best places I visited in Pune:

1. The Urban Foundry:

Urban Foundry is a newly opened resto-pub in the Balewadi High Street, which now houses some of the most interesting places in Pune. The seating area is large and the ambiance is very intriguing. A lot of thought has gone into designing the place. The USP of the place, however is the food. The fusion of new and old dishes has been done very well and some of the fusion dishes found here cannot be found anywhere else. I tried the Thecha mushrooms; Thecha is a spicy Maharashtrian chutney which is eaten with bhakri. Urban Foundry serves stuffed mushrooms topped with Thecha chutney. This dish made me grab a glass of water right after the first bite, but it was delicious and after some time, I didn’t mind the spice. Urban Foundry also has a 6 bottle pack called ‘pop and chug’, which includes 6 premixed cocktails in small bottles. This was also very good and well-priced.

2)11 East Street Cafe:

11 East Street is housed in the centre of the city, in Camp. It has been running successfully since the past 8 years and I could see why. It is a cafe, restaurant and bakery, all in one. The ambiance gives out a typical London vibe and the dessert bus adds to it.I continued my mushroom tasting session here by ordering a dish called ‘Mushroom with love’, which is mushroom curry with rice. It was delectable to say the least. I also ordered a Bombay mojito which was very well-made. The desserts stole the show though. We had the red velvet pastry, the banoffee pie and a really good dessert called ‘Drops of Jupiter’ wherein caramel sauce is poured on a ball of chocolate. The waiters here used to perform Uptown Funk very often and they performed that night as well,on popular demand. Conclusion- must-visit!

 

3)Marz-o-rin:

A visit to Pune is incomplete without a visit to Marz-o-rin. It is to Pune what Candies is to Bombay. It is a very simple yet cosy cafe which serves tasty, reasonably-priced food. It was almost full when I walked in, but the service was up to the mark. I had a grilled sandwich which was very good. The view of one of the busiest markets in Pune added to the experience.

4)Brugge:

Brugge is a tiny cafe within a chocolaterie.Brugge sells its own chocolate and mind you, they have a lot of variety. Upstairs, there is an extremely pretty cafe where one can have coffee or macaroons or a quick bite. I felt like sitting there all day, reading a book and sipping a cup of coffee. The macaroons that they serve can be skipped but do try the coffee and the chocolate at this place.

5) Effingut Brewerkz:

Effingut is located in the affluent Koregaon Park. It is one of the best breweries in Pune, a city that is known for its breweries. The interiors, although a little dark, were interesting. They have 8 different types of craft beer, of which I tried and liked the strawberry cider and the German wheat beer. I again ordered a mushroom dish here, a mushroom alfredo pasta. Now I’m usually not a fan of alfredo sauce but I loved this one.

6)Alto Vino, J W Marriott:

We went to Alto Vino after Effingut for dessert and it was a great decision. Although quite pricey, the tiramisu was one of the best I’ve had. They have a big bowl of tiramisu ready and they  cut up a huge piece and serve you on the plate, which is quite different from how it is served at other places. Every dessert-lover should visit Alto Vino or Pune Baking Company(Also in Marriott)

7)Raasta Cafe:

Raasta Cafe is the perfect place to chill with friends on a weekend and enjoy good music. When I visited Raasta, a Sufi music night was going on. Now this is something we don’t get to see in Bombay very often. Bombay either has Bollywood nights or it has EDM music playing. I thoroughly enjoyed the Sufi music even though I’m not a big fan. The moment the singer started with ‘Agar Tum Saath Ho’, I knew I loved the place. The food is good and cheap and the interiors are minimal yet comforting.

 

I visited other places like Agent Jack’s(which runs on the same concept as Bar Stock Exchange), Swig in Koregaon Park, which I felt was slightly overrated and Bombay High, a club which has good music but is quite expensive. I would also recommend everyone to visit Dario’s which is one of the best Italian restaurants I’ve visited. I ate at Dario’s around a year back and I loved it.
My Pune trip would have been incomplete without exploring the historical monuments that the city is famous for. I visited Shanivar Wada first, since I’d been fascinated by it, thanks to Sanjay Leela Bhansali. The place, although magnificent, was not well-maintained. A lot of people had written their names on the walls, a practice that I hate. It was also quite dirty since people has recklessly littered the place. The monument still looks very beautiful but the soul of the place has been messed with.

 

a panaromic shot of Shanivar Wada

Another place that I visited was the Aga Khan Palace and Museum, where Gandhiji and his followers had been kept. This place was extremely well-maintained and has a wonderful quiet to it. I could hear the pleasant sounds here, no noises; there were no chocolate wraps thrown around, nobody was shouting, everyone was reading about the history of the monument and examining the artifacts . I’m no fan of M.K. Gandhi but this visit was surely fruitful.

Pune also has a very beautiful synagogue, in Camp, which I could only see from outside since it is difficult to obtain permission to see it from the inside. Some travel groups, though, organize walking tours of the city, which includes a visit to the synagogue.

As I left Pune with a heavy heart and some indelible memories, I realized that I had developed a newfound love for Pune. It’s not like Bombay, but maybe that’s the reason I loved it. Unlike other mega-cities, Pune doesn’t seem to be running in the rat-race. It is developing slowly, at its own pace. It is a developed city, has so many opportunities for students and professionals, yet it has maintained its roots. It is cosmopolitan and welcoming yet one gets a Maharashtrian vibe from the people. It is not congested with buildings and skyscrapers, but has open areas and gardens. It is the perfect mixture of the old and the new. It is not fast but at the same time, it’s not ‘dead’. I always thought of myself as someone who could settle in Bombay, but Pune cast its own spell over me. I still love Bombay but time and again, Pune keeps on seducing me with its splendour. And sometime, when I feel like rejuvenating my self, I’ll know where to escape to. Pune is a place for those who love life and wish to celebrate every single moment, without compromises. It is a place every Khanabadosh must visit every now and then,to escape from reality while being surrounded with it. Visit Pune for Budhani’s cheese wafers, for Marz-o-rin’s sandwiches, for the spicy anda-bhurji near the station, for all kinds of fusion dishes at Urban Foundry  and for a quiet walk in Aga Khan. Visit Pune to experience a normality that is wonderful in each aspect. Till then, be Khanabadosh.